<span class="highlight">Solar</span> <span class="highlight">Panel</span> output

Just got my hands on a folding 160w (monocrystaline) with a solar controller attached to the back of panel.
The question being :
When I connect a multimeter to the controller output leads while producing power from the sun, the meter reads 20v, so is this an ok level to connect it to the batteries that I have (2x 100ah) or do I need to buy a better quality controller
Need some help with this, don't want to damage the batteries as the're not very old
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Reply By: Notso - Monday, Aug 29, 2011 at 17:30

Monday, Aug 29, 2011 at 17:30
I think you'll find that if you connect the unit to the battery the voltage will quickly drop to the proper level. The 20 volts would be a "No Load" voltage I imagine. That is with nothing connected to the output, other than the voltmeter.
AnswerID: 463810

Follow Up By: Member - Tony Z (NSW) - Monday, Aug 29, 2011 at 18:01

Monday, Aug 29, 2011 at 18:01
You're correct Notso no load, as I said I have no knowledge about the workings of electricity I'm only a mech.Fitter LOL. So its ok to connect to batteries , I'll try it over the next few days
THANKS
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FollowupID: 737678

Follow Up By: Notso - Monday, Aug 29, 2011 at 18:26

Monday, Aug 29, 2011 at 18:26
Yep, just monitor the voltage to make sure it doesn't overcharge the battery.
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Reply By: CSeaJay - Monday, Aug 29, 2011 at 19:39

Monday, Aug 29, 2011 at 19:39
uys

I am not a sparky either but this does not make sense.
20V is what it reads if there is no controller!
If I measure my V after the controller with no load it is 14.1V (which is the preferred laod for some batteries)
CJ

AnswerID: 463815

Follow Up By: Member - Tony Z (NSW) - Tuesday, Aug 30, 2011 at 15:39

Tuesday, Aug 30, 2011 at 15:39
CSeaJay,
Just looked at the panels and this is what is written on the controller:- Solar Controller solar 12 (144w 12v or below ) 240w 24v Max solar panel. Auto switch between 12v/24v The panel is 160w maybe its reading 24v ?
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FollowupID: 737744

Reply By: Member - Captain (WA) - Monday, Aug 29, 2011 at 23:36

Monday, Aug 29, 2011 at 23:36
Are you sure you have a regulator attached to the panel. Perhaps you just have the output junction box? Open the cover and if there is just 3 diodes in there, its just the solar cells junction and not actually a regulator. Without seeing what you have, I would put money on there being no regulator.

Cheers

Captain
AnswerID: 463833

Follow Up By: Member - Tony Z (NSW) - Tuesday, Aug 30, 2011 at 15:41

Tuesday, Aug 30, 2011 at 15:41
Captain,

Just looked at the panels and this is what is written on the controller:- Solar Controller solar 12 (144w 12v or below ) 240w 24v Max solar panel. Auto switch between 12v/24v The panel is 160w maybe its reading 24v ?
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FollowupID: 737745

Follow Up By: Member - Captain (WA) - Tuesday, Aug 30, 2011 at 18:10

Tuesday, Aug 30, 2011 at 18:10
Hi Tony,

I an now more confused! If you have a 160W panel, then the solar controller of 144W is too small anyway (or right at its limit). Is your solar panel 4 rows of 9 cells? If so, then its a 12V panel (nominal output ~20V before the regulator). As you measure ~20V when in the sun, this is pretty convincing that you don't have a regulator but you do have a "12V" solar panel.

You mentioned in another followup that you may get a Redarc MPPT charger and dcdc controller. While I think this is a great idea (I have the Redarc BCDC 1240), you should ensure your solar panel does NOT have a regulator on it if connecting the Redarc regulator. Otherwise you will have 2 regulators in series and will get poor performance from your solar panels.

A picture is worth a thousand words here :)

Cheers

Captain
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Follow Up By: Member - Tony Z (NSW) - Wednesday, Aug 31, 2011 at 20:14

Wednesday, Aug 31, 2011 at 20:14
Thanks Captain. Just looked at the panels, they are 4 rows of 6. Took a pic of controller but will have to work out how to paste into here
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Follow Up By: Member - Tony Z (NSW) - Wednesday, Aug 31, 2011 at 20:25

Wednesday, Aug 31, 2011 at 20:25
These are some pics

Image Could Not Be Found


Image Could Not Be Found
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Follow Up By: Member - Captain (WA) - Wednesday, Aug 31, 2011 at 23:14

Wednesday, Aug 31, 2011 at 23:14
Hi Tony,

The picture tells the story :) You have a ~$20 regulator, here is a link Juta solar controller link to it.

You mention in another followup that you are looking at a Redarc dcdc / mppt regulator/charger, a good idea IMHO but make sure you remove the exisiting regulator before hooking up.

Cheers

Captain
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FollowupID: 737864

Reply By: Member - Bucky - Tuesday, Aug 30, 2011 at 06:45

Tuesday, Aug 30, 2011 at 06:45
Tony Z

I have a 120 watt folding momocrystaline panel, but could not figure anything out, at first, because I was pulling up, setting up camp, putting out the panels, then attempting to measuring panel output.
Der me,.... Battery fully charged after driving most of the day,therefore would not accept from panel....conclusion, panelmworkinf fine
Still not happy, as panel only showing a series of blinking lights.

But wait, we have Technology....
Enter the Powertec MP3129 controller, hooked it into the system, disconnected the $10 controller, that came with the panels.

It has a digital display, and cycles between, PV Voltage, Battery Voltage, State of charge, Amps being delivered to Battery, and a heap of other things thet confuse me a little

Now I know exactly what the panels are doing, and when working, the panels (most I have seen from controller) can pump in 3.5 amps, and run my Engel, and keep the battery topped up.

Works a treat, amd my knowlege of solar charging has gone up from nill, to just enuf to know what is going on, sort of

Cheers
Bucky
AnswerID: 463836

Follow Up By: Member - Tony Z (NSW) - Tuesday, Aug 30, 2011 at 15:46

Tuesday, Aug 30, 2011 at 15:46
Bucky,
I think I will go and buy a DC-DC charger that has an MPPT controller in it ( Redarc / Ctek ) or similar to up the power from the tug while travelling around
Thanks for the info
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Follow Up By: S Paul - VIC - Wednesday, Aug 31, 2011 at 09:27

Wednesday, Aug 31, 2011 at 09:27
Bucky ,

Is there a reason why your 120W panel is only putting out 3.5A ??

quote"Now I know exactly what the panels are doing, and when working, the panels (most I have seen from controller) can pump in 3.5 amps, and run my Engel, and keep the battery topped up."

You should be getting close to 6 Amps peak performance from any old regulator .

Cheers

Steve
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FollowupID: 737809

Follow Up By: Member - Bucky - Wednesday, Aug 31, 2011 at 15:33

Wednesday, Aug 31, 2011 at 15:33
Steve
The only reason I can think of is the battery and the controller, have conspired to do.

Kinda makes sence to me, that the battery state of charge is monitored, by the controller, and then adjusted so as not to boil the battery.

Cheers Bucky
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Follow Up By: Member - Tony Z (NSW) - Wednesday, Aug 31, 2011 at 20:27

Wednesday, Aug 31, 2011 at 20:27
Thanks all of you for your help, Now I will be able to start to work things out
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FollowupID: 737860

Reply By: wicket - Tuesday, Aug 30, 2011 at 16:07

Tuesday, Aug 30, 2011 at 16:07
with some of those 12/24 volt controllers the connection sequence is critical, make sure you connect positive then negative, to disconnect reverse process, eg negative then positive.
If you have the option connect to battery first then panels.
AnswerID: 463866

Reply By: Member - Tony Z (NSW) - Tuesday, Aug 30, 2011 at 16:42

Tuesday, Aug 30, 2011 at 16:42
Hi All,
Just connected the solar panels to the batteries and put a multimeter on it and it read 13.1v on load taking reading of the clamps, then I checked the battery charge (disconnected)and it was 13.1 must be full charge or near to.
Hope thats ok
Thanks for all your help
Tony Z
AnswerID: 463871

Reply By: Member - Bruce C (NSW) - Tuesday, Aug 30, 2011 at 16:51

Tuesday, Aug 30, 2011 at 16:51
Hi Tony, I have also just bought a 160 watt folding solar panel which came with a cheap ($14) regulator. Was not happy with this cheap reg so I bought aN MPPT regulator and all is working brilliantly now.

If you read the output of the panels they will often show 20 volts on an open circuit. i often check mine on open circuit and the open circuit amps as well with a cheap ($9) multi meter. The output of the reg will be somewhere near the 14 volt mark. and should get around 10 amps into a well drained battery. As battery voltage rises so the amps will drop back.

Unless your batteries are low you will get dissapointing readings as the regulator senses the battery is full and shuts down the input accordingly. This is normal but can be frustrating when we first get these things as we are looking for significant outputs from our newly acquired gear.

My advice is get a battery that is down quite a bit, say around 11.5 volts and try your solar on that and take some readings. You will be reassured and pleased you spent the money. This has been my experience having just gotten into solar in the last 3 weeks. My cousin down on the central cost did exactly the same thing as I have done and we have been comparing notes daily and this is what we have found. Don/t be disalussioned as it will all come out in the wash, so to speak.

The main thing is gat a good MPPT regulator. We each got one in from China for about $100 landed at our respective doors.
Hope this helps.
Bruce.
At home and at ease on a track that I know not and
restless and lost on a track that I know. HL.

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AnswerID: 463873

Reply By: Member - maccax7 - Tuesday, Aug 30, 2011 at 17:10

Tuesday, Aug 30, 2011 at 17:10
Hi Bucky, i knew nothing about solar 18 months ago either. I have just fitted a REDARC 1240 DC-DC Charger. Best move so far. You need to fit a switch to select either Solar or Vehicle charge and away you go. A bit exxy but peace of mind camping. Only other option that works that i know of is the REDARC BMS, but they cost twice the price of the 1240.
Good Luck
Macca.
Looking forward to every weekend being a looong weekend

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AnswerID: 463875

Reply By: S Paul - VIC - Wednesday, Aug 31, 2011 at 09:23

Wednesday, Aug 31, 2011 at 09:23
Tony Z ,

Best thing to do is connect it to your batteries with a multimeter across the battery terminals -- If it goes up from your 13.1 to around 14.2 and stays there then it is fine .. IF however as I suspect it will continue onwards and upwards to a bad voltage ( disconnect at 15V if it does and then change the controller .)



Cheers

Steve
AnswerID: 463923

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